raglan shaping formula raglan shaping formula

Any. I have fallen for more than a few of your designs but was intimidated because I am considered a new-ish knitter. Post your comments or questions here, or to get questions answered, interact with other knitters and find more free stuff, join my students group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/knittingclasses/If you haven't done so already, I hope you'll like my knitting classes page on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/knittingclasses Important: Make a test square in the pattern stitch in I add a factor to the chest measurement. Thank you for the information it is very helpful. One question shows up again and again: What formula do you use to shape a raglan? Because were using short rows, the total rows used must equal neck shaping rows. Sara Dudek similarly acknowledged her appreciation of such sweaters when she dove deeply into design considerations for knitters and crocheters. The short rows may be worked all around the neckline, or just back and forth so that stitches are unworked in the front neck only. You do this by knitting to the sleeve, using a tapestry needle threaded with waste yarn and slipping all of the sleeve stitches onto the thread (tie it together, so you dont lose the stitches!!). Compound raglans literally bend the curve, adding small arcs along the raglan line that help sweater fabric lay more smoothly on the upper bodys curves. Comments must be approved before showing up. Wauw - I'm really impressed and glad to find another excel-fan. Lisa Shroyer, from Knitting Plus However, it doesnt really give the most stable underarm area. That area - the underarm to the neck - is called the yoke. We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. If youve got pattern work near the neck, you can even put those short rows lower down the back as well. googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('interstitial-ad');}); Save patterns, share updates, and connect with your community. Anyway, I can deal with it pretty easily, but it does make it a little more tricky for In a word, geometry. If you do a few calculations, you can adjust for yourself, in the same way, to fit a pattern exactly to your body shape. From the website: The percentage method of creating a sweater pattern uses the chest measurement plus an allowance for ease of fit as a basis for all other measurements. Short rows cannot accommodate long straight vertical lines. And it addresses the difference between the stitch gauge and the row gauge which very rarely are equal. 2) Each human body follows some geometrical principles and ignores others. Maybe a note on the calculator mentioning that it's not designed for kids? If rows used in shaping is MORE rows than you calculated when you worked out desired neck depth, youll need to either increase the number of bottom neck stitches or work more rate A rows. The waist shaping formula is exactly the same as above. (This strand is marked in photo #1 with a red line.) A knitter who does excel! A child's proportions This is a diagonal measurement and is more or less useless for predicting your fit because you won't know where it begins or ends in relation to your neck or your underarm. For a raglan to fit correctly, you would typically increase/decrease on each side of the body (and at the front and back) and on each side of the sleeve on every right-side row or every other round if working in the round. This method of FBA can look kind of odd off a body because of how it changes the appearance of the raglan, but it looks just fine on. If youve drafted a scoop neck instead, youll need to bind off stitches instead of working short rows. These little crochet hearts can be stuffed with the love-infused herbs recommended, or your favorite scented herbs, and a rose quartz stone or bead to amplify the sense of love radiating off of this precious gift. Hello, thanks for your interesting explanation. I debated changing the Raglan increases because I generally prefer to have the increase line extend all the way down below the armpit. half the body-width. At the underarm, a few stitches If you are accustomed to Remember - what we're doing with short rows is leaving some stitches in the front unworked. Thanks again and do keep designing and sharing. Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. I know how much time and detail you have put into this and I sincerely appreciate it! This blog post from Amy Herzog is a fantastic resource for different neckline shapes and the shaping rates that create them. Knowing your gauge is Please allow a few minutes for this process to complete. Today we are going to look into the pros and cons of knitting a sweater with raglan shoulder shaping and give you some pattern ideas to try out this method. Fundamentally, a raglan is a sweater that is shaped between the underarm and the neck with four columns of decreases that go from the front and back of each armhole up to the neck. However when I think about looking at the sweater as a whole it seems like on one side you would want stitches to lean left and on one side you would want stitches to lean right to make it symmetrical. Knitting is an art, but the engineering-part of my brain is constantly questioning why so many designs can't just be explained as formulas. In a traditional raglan, you start with the neck size you want, increase the body and sleeves every second row or round until you get close to the body stitches you want. All Rights Reserved. His tailor developed this style of sleeve to be more comfortable for him after the loss of his arm. The extended sleeve cap, which matches the yoke in depth and number of rows, has a diagonal tension (a line of stress in the fabric) that cuts across the outer arm and shoulder and can be uncomfortable for women with larger upper arms or broad shoulders. The content is awesome. I love hearing what you have to say! Yes, since you're measuring your body, but that won't have anything to do with the raglan length. Swap a round crew for a v-neck by choosing a deeper neckline and binding off just 3 sts at the bottom. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. The Ripening of the Raspberry Cheesecake Capelet. With the left needle tip, reach down and pick up the left leg of the stitch 2 rows below the stitch on your right needle. A beautiful raglan sweater with a gorgeous cable design. Ive designed an awful lot of top-down raglan sweaters and cardigans. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. However it can also be worked in pieces and seamed together. For a bit more refinement you could have a mirrored M1R and M1L, and if you were working on a lace cardigan, you might opt to use a yo (yarnover) increase as it would fit with the lace. This is a useful construction that allows you to try on the sweater as you go. For some body shapes, this works just fine, BUT on the smaller and larger end of the spectrum, you can have problems. Hey, I just came across this while making a search on raglan. Knitters in larger sizes will often need to increase every row, and will need to add more body stitches than sleeve stitches. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. In the fashion illustration below, the side view reveals a curve just below the neck (between shoulder and high bust), then another curve where high bust becomes full bust. Now compare the raglan sweaters geometry to the bodys geometry. A Free Bracelet Beading Pattern for Valentines Day. THE CIRCULAR YOKE Two ways of visualizing the circular-yoke sleeve and body. of that measurement. The sleeve cap has to stretch over the outer joint of the shoulder and across the top of the shoulder to the neckline, requiring a flat plane of fabric to curve over an angled area. You save me so much overwhelming hours. Bottoms Up Raglan is presented in one size only for now. Additionally the increases allow for great creativity to highlight the style lines of the raglan seam. This is the shoulder width, and from the top of the shoulder, half the width will fall the front and half to the back. They look a little different at the top because of the final bind-off, but that difference disappears when you work in the round. Half of the shoulder width + raglan depth = yoke depth. Thank you so much. The first that I want to talk about is top-down seamless raglan. Its very rare that a raglan wont need front neck shaping - the shoulder width needs to be about six inches wide for that to work. This will be the number of stitches in the last row before any decreases for ribbing. Without this shaping, the collar will be pulled to the back. This creates a wider or narrower seam along the raglan. Now that weve checked out some of the benefits of this construction method, lets look at some drawbacks. It's knitting a little pocket for a nonexistent neck boob. Short rows cant accommodate long vertical lines because all the stitches stay live on the needle. So I guess the percentages are a bit different on little ones. The body and sleeves can be worked separately in pieces that are seamed together or the body and sleeves can be worked in the round to the armholes, then joined and worked in a single piece to the neck. The raglan sweater style is fun to knit, and I love how the shaping becomes a design element. Lisas List: 10 Reasons Knitting Is Better Than Dating, Spurned Gifts: When Knit & Crochet Gifts Went Wrong. But you wouldn't solve this by working right back and forth across between the back raglans. If you opt for the top down construction of this style of sweater it can easily be tried on by slipping it off the needle and onto some waste yarn or multiple circular needles. I hope that these examples get you started thinking about how much control you have over your raglan knitting projects :), 4607 Library Road Ste 220-206 Because the raglan lines draw the eye in from the curves of the bust, theyre quite flattering on curvy womenemphasizing the bust while creating a look of feminine narrowness across the shoulders. Measure from the point where your neck meets the shoulder (right at the top where a shoulder seam would be), straight down to a point level with where you want the bottom of the neckline to be. As pointed out by April K., this percentage method works best for adult proportions. My goal is to give you some room to breathe! Fortunately, we crocheters and knitters have control over our own garments, and theres no rule demanding a smooth, straight raglan line. Divide the number of shoulder stitches by the stitches per inch from your gauge. Lightweight Pullover by Hannah Fettig, Sweater Construction Methods: Set-In Sleeves, Sweater Construction Methods: Dolman Style, Sweater Construction Methods: Circular Yoke, Sweater Construction Methods: Contiguous Set-In Sleeve, Sweater Construction Methods: Saddle Shoulder. This is a pattern for working the body of the sweater as one piece starting from Increases are made around four fixed points. Thanks for your advice CarolI will experiment a little with spacing out my raglan increases. sts - stitches. Note - if you have a hump on your back you can solve that with short rows - but they'll extend past the raglan lines so that they don't create that sharp little bubble. If youre working with a gauge over 4, divide the number of stitches and rows by 4 to get the gauge over a single inch. and markers. If the front neckline is shallow (like a crew neck), it may be pulled up into your neck. Everything after that is finessing. For a crew neck, were looking at a shallow neckline, just enough to create room for your neck. Bonus tip: Our bust line isnt at the underarm. And before you go any further, obssessed in the quest of a free pattern, The chest measurement is treated as the 100%; all other measurements are some portion of that measurement., This is a pattern for working the body of the sweater as one piece starting from the top. I have included mostly simple sweaters using the raglan sweater construction. body or the arm length. Raglan Fundamentals Fundamentally, a raglan is a sweater that is shaped between the underarm and the neck with four columns of decreases that go from the front and back of each armhole up to the neck. Thanks so much for sharing you work, I really appreciate it!!! It increases more rapidly between the neck and shoulders and at the end to curve around the underarm, [with] more gradual [increasing] in the section in between. This might be a good time to talk about the goal of short rows. I just purchased Caelius to knit for my teen daughterit will be my first A-line sweater and I think the Dovestone DK is the perfect yarn. I love the lace. Im about to start knitting a top-down raglan sweater in the round with short rows in the back. We dont reach our widest measurement until several inches below the underarm (and the larger you are, the truer that tends to be!). So, the basic structure of the raglan shaping begins at the neck with increases on the body and sleeves on every round, then it changes to alternating between 1 round of body and sleeve increases and 1 round of shaping on either body OR sleeves (depending on the size), then it changes to working increases on the body and sleeves every other adventurous. When you get down to the torso of the sweater it can easily be shaped and fitted any way you like it. In a raglan, stitches from the sleeve contribute to neck depth (see illustration below). The style of these "lines" can be different depending on the design, but here are some examples of what it looks like this: Arlo & Alice baby/child cardigan Add or subtract armhole depth, and those diagonal lines between body and sleeves (the raglan lines) change their slope. The shaping is all absolutely identical, and you can see that this would have zero effect on the back neck. Now we see why the sweater might poof out just above the breasts or right at the armpit. If you use some other Pattern + overview / Part 1: Casting on and marking raglans / Part 2: Raglans and neck shaping / Part 3: Finishing the neck and yoke / Part 4: Separating the sleeves and body / Part 5: The art of sweater shaping / Epilogue: The possibilities are endless. Womens upper bodies, however, dont necessarily curve in a smooth line: our curves pick up speed and then slow down, so to speak. If you're a designer and you're doing this and you want to help me understand what your goal was, please do write back! Interested in getting technical content, inspiration, and fit tips delivered directly to your inbox? E.g. Written for a bust measurement of 34 inches around the underarm, with about 6 inches of positive ease. Both sleeve cap and yoke are truncated triangles. I just finished a raglan sweater, and Im really enjoying wearing it. Common misconception: all raglans increase in the front and body every other row and are seamless. for kids and adults. The casual, sporty look of raglans gives them a somewhat youthful look that has long made them a favorite in knitwear. The sleeve cap and body can be shaped at different rates or at the same rate; just remember that in most cases, the sleeve and body need to have the same number of rows or rounds between the armhole and the neck. By understanding what the designer had in mind and what YOU need, you can intervene in an informed way. If this is your first sweater I recommend starting with the Tilda pattern. Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts! I was trying to figure out how to start and how to measure for different sizes because I am newbie in knitting. Because the shoulders and armholes are not well defined on a raglan sweater, there tends to be a little extra fabric in the underarm area. You can use cm - it all works the same. sweater neck do not work on children with large heads! The shaping for your raglan will fit best if you mirror this S shape - also called compound shaping. Work decreases more closely at the top and bottom, and less frequently in the middle of the raglan line. The contents of this post first appeared in one of my weekly Studio Updates. For bonus points, reference a sweater you have and love that has the perfect crew neck. This is the final post of our series. Once youve worked those rows, place a stitch marker in the middle of the front stitches (if its odd number of stitches, mark the middle stitch with a locking stitch marker). Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. If youd like to make a deeper neckline by binding off, you have so many choices! If youd like to make a deeper neckline by binding off, you have so many choices! Im going to walk you through adding a shallow short-row neckline to a raglan thats knit in the round from the bottom up. For some women, the knitted sweater construction can result in sleeves appearing too short and too tight, and can create discomfort at the underarm and armhole. Its comfy and the style is flattering, if I do say so myself. Id like to repeat my basic rules of fit from an earlier post: 1) The fashion industry assumes that all human bodies follow all of the same geometrical principles at all times. It doesnt always create perfect results, but with a little bit of knowledge, you can easily adjust patterns to suit your body and taste. It seems very useful - can't hardly wait to "play" with it.Thanks for sharing!/Lisbethk, Dear Kristen,I have always loved working raglan sweaters from the neck down, but your instructions are so thorough and easy to follow. If you have an odd number of stitches, the formula is: While continuing to follow raglan shaping and stitch pattern: Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. I do have a question that Im wondering if you could help with. Svalbard by Bristol Ivy By increasing evenly in all four sections of the sweater, you're creating raglans at a 45 angle to the neck . Youll need to add one more row to resolve all those double stitches, so the formula is: Rows worked in raglan shaping per pattern - neck shaping rows - 1. Tell us, in the comments! The only difference between the two? If the pattern has you decrease evenly between the bicep and the neck, add your new decreases at the top and bottom. up from around the armhole. Raglan length goes all the way up to your shoulder so it will be different for every sweater depending on neck width, depth. Note: I've used inches below. Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. This gives each section a triangular shape. be aware that this pattern is a percentage approximation. This will be neck shaping rows. The final stitches are then cast-on across the underarm. In raglans worked from the bottom up, the raglan shaping is achieved with decreases. Personally Ive never seen a sweater design that suits everybody and that every crocheter or knitter adores wholeheartedly, without reservations. This is Linda, wearing Soft Structure, which has a shallow V-neck, and more increases in the front than the back - worked beneath the underarm. To illustrate this, here are two swatches, both worked with the exact same shaping rate as suggested above. try to match someone else's gauge. if you'll be casting on 16 underarm sts, you'll work raglan increases in the front/back until you have 83 sts, then 16 will be cast on at the underarm, giving you 99. . The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. For each raglan curve, reflect it in its 'base': copy the three points defining a raglan curve onto a spare piece of tissue paper, carefully labelling the neckline and the centre front points; turn it over, then align the neckline and centre front points up with the main sheet. Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift. Yoke-shaping is governed by measurement; let us take as an example the sweater given below. For some body shapes, this works just fine, BUT on the smaller and larger end of the spectrum, you can have problems. The pattern is generated so that you can use any size knitting needle with any weight yarn. In contrast to yoke depth, which is the total depth of the top part of the sweater, raglan depth is simply the rows you work from the cast-on to the underarm. Want to go deeper on front neck shaping? Because knitting is a matter of individual abilities Beginning at the neck, the number of stitches on the front (s), back, and sleeves increase at regular intervals along these lines. Start by eliminating two stitches per turn (if working German Short rows, this means youll work until there is 1 stitch before the double stitch, then turn your work) until half your stitches to shape out are eliminated. My FO demonstrates the wisdom of her advice (as well as her eye for a stunning cable motif). There's some mythology out there about how front neck shaping rates can 'raise the neckline too fast.' Download Knitting Plus or Easy Seamless Sweaters to Knit! We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. I would not like to have to tear up the entire jacket. For a raglan to fit well, the yoke has to be deep enough for the rise of your shoulder (our shoulders are not flat lines across, but rise from the tip of the shoulder to the inside point of the neck), your armhole, and some wearing ease (usually about 1). maybe using some of the increments from the other sweater calculator that goes in sizes I'm a bit of a nerd (ok, a really big one) and I've often wondered how I could create something like this. Ready to see what Kniterator can do for you? Lets call this C. If you have an even number of stitches, simply divide bottom neck stitches by two. which most of your sweater will be done. You can work those short rows right up against each other the same way you can work one decrease every row when you bind off.